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This is how Michelotti influenced American fashion trends: The Lilly Ann Ferrari

In the 1950s, Luigi Chinetti, official Ferrari importer for the United States, tasked Michelotti with designing a Ferrari 250 MM bodied by Vignale, commissioned from him by the owner of the “Lilly Ann Corporation,” a large U.S. chain of women’s fashion stores.

The primary emphasis of Lilli Ann Company revolved around the production of women’s suits and coats. Established in 1934 by Adolph Schuman in San Francisco, the company derived its name from his wife, Lillian. Following World War II, Schuman ventured to Paris and began incorporating “Paris” into the label, as reported by Vintage Fashion Guild. He played a pivotal role in rescuing numerous French companies from closure by procuring textiles from them post-war.

Lilli Ann extensively promoted its brand through various vintage fashion magazines such as Glamour, Bazaar, and Vogue from the late 1940s to the early 1950s. The pinnacle of Lilli Ann’s fashion influence was witnessed during the mid-1950s.

The Lilli Ann silhouette from the mid-50s exuded a sense of timelessness, elegance, and sophistication.

The main request of the American customer, was to have a car equipped with original bodywork and stylistically appropriate to promote the company’s business.

Luigi Chinetti some years ago recounts as follows: “I’ll always remember that one day I had him (Giovanni Michelotti) design a car that I wanted to make for a friend (Adolph Schuman) in California who was in fashion, making ladies’ clothes, and he was very successful over there: he said it had to be a Ferrari with a new custom body and that it should make an impact for his business as well.

So I asked Michelotti: “design the car but the most important thing is that you have to make it stand out in a certain way that that car will help him in his business.”

photo courtesy of iandrummondvintage.com

And Michelotti replied, “…but how, he already has one of the best fashion stores in San Francisco!”

I had Michelotti draw three or four Ferrari sketches with a ‘Lilly Ann Corporation’ store in the background, in which in the windows, you could see the dresses and outside, the car with a beautiful young lady about twenty-five years old, whom I saw in person one day in front of the store. So I said to Michelotti, “Make the dress for that lady there, and we’ll put her beside the car.”

A few months after the approval of the design, the Ferrari Vignale one-off was delivered by Chinetti, along with the figurines made by Michelotti which shows, as mentioned, the car in combination with that elegant woman figure, with a dress matching the colors of the bodywork.

These illustrations had the purpose of being reproduced in copy and displayed in the stores to emphasize the exclusivity of the products.

The whole operation went very well, and afterwards, when Chinetti sent the Ferrari to Schuman, he asked him if he was satisfied with the car.

“‘Very happy!” he replied, “except that when it rains it is so watertight that when the water comes in it doesn’t come out, but I love it anyway, and besides that, it’s made me earn so much money!”

Chinetti asked Schuman how he earned money since he still had the car and did not sell it. Chinetti himself didn’t earned anything on the sale since he did it as a personal favor.

The sketches were so successful that the “Lilly Ann Corporation” produced the Michelotti-designed suit model, making 5,000 units, as well as numerous series of derivative variants.

detail of Michelotti's designed dress. Courtesy of Archivio Michelotti

Answering Chinetti’s question: “I manufactured and sold a remarkable quantity of 5,000 suits of the dress worn by that stunning lady reproduced on the sketch, within an exceptionally short period. Subsequently, I created additional models owing to Michelotti’s innate artistic talent. Not only did he craft a stunning automobile for me, but he also left a lasting impact on the fashion trends of America during that year.” replied Schuman.

The acquisition of that Ferrari resulted in a significant profit rather than a substantial expenditure.

In addition to this, throughout his lifetime, Schuman played a pivotal role in guiding European weavers towards the path of modernization. Regrettably, he passed away in 1985, and subsequently, the company ceased its operations by 2000.

Giovanni Michelotti’s talent and brilliance are once again showcased by this anecdote, highlighting his genius not only in the automotive industry but also in various other domains. For further stories, don’t miss Giovanni Michelotti’s book “A free stylist” available here.

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Sultan Brunei Car Collection

Everyone has heard stories about the Sultan of Brunei’s immense and almost mythical car collection, but few details have ever been confirmed. Shrouded in secrecy, this legendary fleet of rare and bespoke automobiles has fascinated enthusiasts for decades. Recently, a handful of insider photos emerged online, offering a glimpse into the hidden treasure trove.

What many don’t realize is that much of the collection’s extravagance can be traced back to the Sultan’s younger brother, Prince Jefri Bolkiah. With the Royal Family’s extraordinary fortune; largely built on Brunei’s vast oil and gas reserves; Prince Jefri spearheaded an era of unparalleled spending in the 1980s and 1990s. The Sultanate’s wealth was immense, with the Sultan’s net worth reportedly reaching $30 billion, enabling extravagant purchases on a scale that stunned the world.

At its peak, the Royal Family’s car collection was rumored to include around 7,000 vehicles, valued at over $5 billion. This included custom Ferraris, Bentleys, Rolls-Royces, and bespoke models from almost every luxury automaker, many of which were tailored to the exacting tastes of Prince Jefri. It’s estimated that the family’s spending on Rolls-Royces alone exceeded £480 million during the 1990s, making them the brand’s single most important clients.

Italian design house Pininfarina played a vital role in bringing many of the family’s automotive visions to life. From reengineering Ferraris like the 456 into custom sedans and wagons to crafting entirely unique vehicles, Pininfarina became deeply entwined with the Royal Family’s car projects. However, this dependence on the Sultan’s commissions came at a cost. When the family’s spending spree came to an end, Pininfarina faced severe economic difficulties, forcing it to sell parts of its private collection to survive.

In this article, we dive into some of the most iconic custom cars from the Sultan’s collection, focusing on the Italian masterpieces created by Pininfarina and other renowned coachbuilders. From bespoke Ferraris to completely reimagined Bentleys, these cars showcase an extraordinary chapter in automotive history—one driven by unparalleled wealth, obsession, and creativity.

Paolo Garella: The Architect Behind the Collection

Paolo Garella is an Italian engineer whose career spans over three decades, defined by his blend of technical expertise and creative innovation. His journey began at Goodyear’s Technical Center in Luxembourg, where he honed his skills in advanced testing and vehicle dynamics. His ability to solve complex problems and his leadership potential quickly became apparent, leading him to PTI-Albatech, where he worked on hybrid and electric vehicle projects.

In 1992, Garella joined Pininfarina, where he would become a key figure in the company’s development. He rose through the ranks, managing the Prototype Engineering and Manufacturing Department, and later founding Pininfarina Special Projects in 2002. Under his leadership, this division produced bespoke, one-off cars for clients with unique tastes, reinforcing Garella’s reputation as a master of tailored automotive solutions.

Sultan Brunei Car Collection

A defining chapter of his career was his work with the Sultan of Brunei’s legendary car collection. Garella’s ability to navigate the pressures of working with the royal family and his focus on creating personalized, exceptional vehicles earned him their trust and solidified his position as a leading figure in automotive design.

After leaving Pininfarina in 2009, Garella continued to contribute to the automotive world, founding Manifattura Automobili Torino in 2014. Throughout his career, he remained focused on craftsmanship, collaboration, and innovation, earning respect not only for his technical expertise but for his leadership and dedication to creating extraordinary cars.

Pininfarina and the Right-Hand Drive Conversions

Pininfarina’s collaboration with the Sultan of Brunei involved a unique challenge: converting left-hand drive performance cars, like the Ferrari 288 GTO and F40, to right-hand drive, as preferred by the Sultan. Led by Paolo Garella, Pininfarina’s engineers had to re-engineer the entire car, from repositioning the dashboard to adjusting the suspension, all while maintaining the cars’ performance.

In addition, Garella and his team upgraded the air-conditioning systems to handle Brunei’s tropical climate, ensuring comfort without compromising the cars’ high-performance standards. This project wasn’t just technical; it was an opportunity for Pininfarina to blend craftsmanship with engineering, creating bespoke vehicles tailored to the Sultan’s exact needs. Each car became a one-of-a-kind masterpiece, reflecting the Sultan’s vision of luxury.

The love for the 456 GT

The Ferrari 456 designed by Pietro Camardella became a key part of the Sultan of Brunei’s collection, with Pininfarina tasked to create unique versions, all known as “Venice” models. In total, around 42 bespoke Ferraris were built, including four-door sedans, five-door wagons, and two-door convertibles, all tailored to the Sultan’s preferences. Notably, Pininfarina adapted a night vision and a Porsche 928 automatic transmission to the 456, as the Sultan preferred automatic gearboxes.

Sultan Brunei Car Collection

Additionally, the cars received modifications to suit Brunei’s tropical climate, including enhanced air-conditioning and subtle design tweaks. These Venice versions weren’t just custom cars; they were a blend of luxury and innovation, each reflecting the Sultan’s distinctive vision.

The Ferrari 550 Bahar

Sultan Brunei Car Collection

The Ferrari 550 Bahar is a unique one-of-a-kind vehicle commissioned by the Sultan of Brunei for his son, Prince Bahar. Built by Pininfarina with Paolo Garella managing the project, it’s a bespoke version of the Ferrari 550 Barchetta, created before the official release of the model.

The most notable modification is the custom hardtop, transforming the open-top Barchetta into a coupe-like design for a more weather-resistant, luxurious experience. The car also features a front-mounted automatic gearbox from Mercedes-Benz, offering greater comfort compared to the traditional Ferrari manual transmission. The roof system was borrowed by the Mercedes-Benz R129 SL, but was widened for improved structure and elegance. Only three units were built, making the 550 Bahar an exclusive creation.

The Ferrari FX

Sultan Brunei Car Collection

The Ferrari FX is a unique, bespoke car created by Pininfarina for the Sultan of Brunei. Only few units were produced, featuring a flat-twelve engine from the Ferrari Testarossa and a 7-speed sequential manual transmission from Williams F1, allowing it to reach a top speed of 205 mph. Each car was custom-built to the Sultan’s specifications, blending luxury with performance. While five were delivered to Brunei, the fourth car was cancelled by the Sultan and later acquired by Dick Marconi. This car is now displayed at the Marconi Automotive Museum in California, making the Ferrari FX a rare and exceptional part of automotive history.

The Ferrari Mythos

Sultan Brunei Car Collection

Unveiled at the 1989 Tokyo Motor Show, the Mythos is a stunning concept car by Pininfarina, based on the Ferrari Testarossa. Designed by Pietro Camardella, it features a bold, wedge-shaped body with a 4.9-liter flat-12 engine producing 390 hp, paired with a 5-speed manual transmission. Though not intended for production, the Sultan of Brunei commissioned several specimens, one in red and another in turquoise, adding them to his legendary collection. The Mythos’ design would later inspire the Ferrari F50, and its story is further connected to the Ferrari F90, a proposal that became a limited production for Prince Jefri of Brunei.

The F90

Sultan Brunei Car Collection

The Ferrari F90 is a unique creation that emerged from Enrico Fumia’s rejected concept for the 1989 Tokyo Motor Show. Although the design wasn’t chosen for the show, it was revived in 1988 when Prince Jefri of Brunei requested a bespoke supercar. Fumia’s design was adapted and approved for the Prince, leading to the creation of the F90.

Unveiled in 2005, the F90 featured a Targa roof, sleek lines, and functional yet stylish elements like elliptical front motifs. It retained the Testarossa’s V12 engine but introduced innovative design features. The car was tested secretly and remained largely unknown until a 2002 photo revealed one in the Sultan’s garage. Ferrari officially recognized the F90 in 2005.

Today, the six Ferrari F90s remain part of the Sultan of Brunei’s private collection, with Fumia hoping one day to share his creation with the world.

The Bolide

Sultan Brunei Car Collection

The Ferrari F50 Bolide was an ambitious project by the Brunei Royal Family and Pininfarina in the late 1990s. The plan was to convert six F50s into right-hand-drive models and create six unique track-focused Bolide variants. While a full-scale model was made, featuring a wooden chassis and foam body, the project never reached production.

The Bolide was envisioned with a V10 engine derived from Ferrari’s F1 technology, offering a true performance experience. However, financial and logistical challenges led to its cancellation, leaving only the model as a legacy. The F50 Bolide remains a fascinating “what if” in automotive history.

The Love for Bentey

Bentley was one of the Sultan of Brunei’s favorite brands, and his collection of bespoke vehicles crafted in collaboration with Pininfarina is a testament to his love for luxury and exclusivity. These unique creations, most assembled by the Italian coachbuilder Coggiola, reflect the Sultan’s penchant for personalization and his desire to own the finest automobiles in the world.

Among the standout pieces is the Bentley Azur 2-Door Convertible, a one-of-a-kind vehicle based on the Bentley Turbo R. Finished in a striking black-on-black color scheme, it combines high performance with supreme elegance, featuring a 6.75-liter V8 engine and a rare four-wheel-drive system. The Azur 4-Door Convertible, also a custom creation, reimagined the original design into a four-door version, finished in an elegant blue with a matching interior, and similarly equipped with four-wheel drive to meet the Sultan’s specific preferences.

The Bentley B2 Coupé, originally introduced in 1994, underwent a significant interior retrofit inspired by the Bentley B3, a model the Sultan of Brunei favored for its more refined and successful cabin design. While only 13 units of the B2 were ever built, this bespoke grand tourer reflected the Sultan’s desire for exclusivity. The Bentley B3, another highly exclusive creation, was based on the Bentley Continental R and produced in an even more limited run of just 12 units. Renowned for its elegant design and luxurious interior, the B3 set a benchmark for the Sultan’s bespoke fleet, influencing the modifications made to the earlier B2 Coupé. Among the Sultan’s unique collection was also the Bentley Phoenix Cabriolet, a striking and rare model from the 1990s, with only five examples ever made. One of these was finished in the Sultan’s official shade of yellow, further enhancing its uniqueness. Additionally, the Bentley Spectre Convertible, introduced in 1995, showcased the pinnacle of personalized luxury, combining exclusive design with tailored craftsmanship to suit the Sultan’s precise tastes.

The Aston Martins

The Aston Martin AM3 and AM4 were custom creations commissioned by the Sultan of Brunei in 1995, designed by Pininfarina’s Scott A. Barras. Both models were built on the Aston Martin Vantage 600 chassis, with only three units of each produced.

The AM3 features a sleek, modern design with a composite nose cone and unique rear lights, offering a forward-thinking take on Aston Martin’s classic grille shape. The AM4, on the other hand, blends retro styling inspired by the DB5 and DB6 with modern elements, creating a muscular yet elegant silhouette.

Both cars reflect the Sultan’s desire for luxury and exclusivity, with each being a rare and distinctive addition to his extraordinary collection.

The Argento Vivo

Sultan Brunei Car Collection

The Honda Argento Vivo, unveiled at the 1995 Tokyo Motor Show, was a futuristic two-seater convertible with a sleek aluminum frame and a retractable hardtop. Captivated by its design, the Sultan of Brunei commissioned four unique versions based on the Mercedes-Benz SL73 AMG R129 platform, each with a powerful 7.3-liter V12 engine. Valued at over $1 million each, two of these bespoke vehicles were delivered to his collection, while the other two remained unfinished—one briefly appearing on eBay in 2009, and the other disappearing into mystery.

The Jaguar XJ220 Pininfarina

Sultan Brunei Car Collection

The Jaguar XJ220 Pininfarina, commissioned by the Sultan of Brunei in 1995, featured bespoke updates by Pininfarina and Coggiola. The custom design included fixed headlights, new rear lights, and a reworked rear wing, while the interior was upgraded to match its luxurious exterior in dark green. Retaining the original supercharged V6 engine and aluminum chassis, only two were made. One was destroyed in a fire, and the other’s location remains unknown.

The Cinquecento Pick-Up

Sultan Brunei Car Collection

The Fiat Cinquecento Pick-Up AH, a one-off creation by Pininfarina is a unique evolution of the original Cinquecento Pick-Up concept. Designed under the guidance of Paolo Garella, the car features a roll bar over the loading bed, Spiaggina-inspired doors, and an open-air design for a breezy, summer aesthetic. Finished in elegant “Agnelli” blue with a matching leather interior, it includes exclusive AH logos and Pininfarina badges. As a right-hand-drive model, it perfectly aligns with the Sultan’s preferences, blending compact functionality with luxurious design.

The Other Design Houses

The Rolls-Royce Majestic, created by Bertone for the Sultan of Brunei between 1995-1997, is an exclusive model with only six units built. Powered by a turbocharged V8, it features active seat belts and a luxurious interior designed to the Sultan’s specifications.

The BMW Nazca M12, a prototype designed by Fabrizio Giugiaro, was powered by a BMW V12 engine and was built as a lightweight supercar. While it never went into production, at least one was made for the Sultan, finished in a unique blue paint.

The Aston Martin Lagonda Vignale, a 1993 concept by Ghia Design, was powered by a Lincoln V8 engine, though it was intended to feature a V12. Only three units were built, with one going to the Sultan of Brunei, finished in a striking brown color and fitted with a V12 Jaguar engine.

The Legacy and Lessons of Brunei’s Automotive Obsession

The Sultan of Brunei’s car collection is a remarkable showcase of the artistry and craftsmanship that comes from working with renowned coachbuilders like Pininfarina. Each bespoke vehicle represents a unique blend of luxury, performance, and personalization, highlighting the Sultan’s deep passion for cars. From custom Ferrari 456s to one-off Aston Martins and Jaguars, these cars are not just machines but works of art. However, as the Sultan eventually stopped commissioning new cars, Pininfarina faced challenges due to their heavy reliance on this one client. With limited diversification, the company faced economic difficulties and was eventually forced to sell part of their private collection to stay afloat. It’s a reminder of how even the most successful collaborations can face challenges when they lack balance and diversification.